“PROST to München!” we toasted Munich, the big city with small town ideas. Gemütlichkeit is what Germans call the convivial atmosphere of Bayern’s (Bavaria’s) capital. Even the uptight northern Germans come here to unwind in the vibrant setting of beer gardens shaded by giant chestnut trees, cavernous raucous beer halls, and endless eateries serving hardy, homey fare. On Sundays and holidays, most shops outside of the central area are closed. It is a day for locals as well as visitors to walk through gardens, take in some of the many museums, or stroll through the Marienplatz, Munich’s most famous...
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